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1986 85hp force not firing on cylinder 3

J

JordanR86

New member
Good day everyone,

Last year I got a boat with a 86 85hp force motor. It didn’t run at full speed when I got it. While checking things I shorted the rectifier with a screw driver. After that I changed the rectifier and it worked great. Until end of summer that is. Than the problem started up again. No spark on third cylinder. So come this season I naturally thought it needed a new rectifier, that it blew somehow. I changed the rectifier with 3 different ones and none made a difference. Tested them with a meter and they test out the same and only have continuity one direction as they should. I am curious if anyone has had similar issues or knows where to check? I’ve checked all the wires for continuity last summer and couldn’t find any broken wires anywhere.

Thank you
 
http://www.outboardignition.com/. They have trouble shooting procedures for your motor.
If it didn't run full speed before?? Do a compression test?? post the results.
Usually loosing spark on 1 cylinder could be the pack for that cylinder is bad(maybe) or the stator is bad(again maybe)
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
http://www.outboardignition.com/. They have trouble shooting procedures for your motor.
If it didn't run full speed before?? Do a compression test?? post the results.
Usually loosing spark on 1 cylinder could be the pack for that cylinder is bad(maybe) or the stator is bad(again maybe)
Click to expand...
Hey sorry for the delay. Haven’t been able to find a compression tester yet. All cylinders seem to have spark when testing. Now I noticed when I have the motor on muffs if I increase throttle, the rpms match and increase as normal. Once the motor is in the water rpms seem to be limited. But if I trim the motor out of the water I can again make the rpms go high. Just doesn’t seem to work in water. So right now it only goes about 6-10km an hour.
 
Your motor is not producing enuff POWER to spin the prop in water.----Winding it up on muffs in gear is still neutral.----Motor does not need to WORK spinning a prop in air!-----Check the flywheel key.-----Post the actual compression values.----Are the carburetors clean?.----Check fuel pump for a ruptured diaphragm.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more ?-----Do not run this motor until you correct the issue.----A plugged carburetor can destroy this motor.
 
racerone said:
Your motor is not producing enuff POWER to spin the prop in water.----Winding it up on muffs in gear is still neutral.----Motor does not need to WORK spinning a prop in air!-----Check the flywheel key.-----Post the actual compression values.----Are the carburetors clean?.----Check fuel pump for a ruptured diaphragm.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more ?-----Do not run this motor until you correct the issue.----A plugged carburetor can destroy this motor.
Click to expand...
Okay so you’re saying if motor is out of water, it’s irrelevant to what’s happening with the motor? I’ll try to find a compression tester at work tomorrow asking different people. I took the carbs off a year ago and cleaned them, used jet cleaning rods to clean the small holes. Put the carb in an ultrasonic bath for an hour and no change.
What do you mean by jump a gap for sparks? I’ve been shocked by the plugs when my hands were only near the spark plug wires and not touching them. Is that similar? Last year I took the pump cover off and the fuel pump diaphragm was in great condition. Haven’t checked this season but will tomorrow. Thank you.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
http://www.outboardignition.com/. They have trouble shooting procedures for your motor.
If it didn't run full speed before?? Do a compression test?? post the results.
Usually loosing spark on 1 cylinder could be the pack for that cylinder is bad(maybe) or the stator is bad(again maybe)
Click to expand...
Update on some testing I did today. I used a tach and ignition tester to check each spark plug pack. The bottom two cylinders(2&3) had 22 volts and spark. The top cylinder #1 had spark but only 4.5 volts. My plan is to switch the two ignition modules as the second is only using half of it to fire cylinder #3. I am going to switch the wires for the stator and triggers so as to not mess up the timing as well. While looking I did notice that the stator uses 2 sets of blue and yellow wires. The set for cylinders 1&2 are normal. The third one has the 2 wires from stator crimped together to send signal to the one ignition pack for the cylinder 3. So I’m going to put pin connectors on them so I can separate them and try to get number 1 cylinder going by switching the control modules out.
 
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